Backed Saws are Better

I'm not a tool maker so perhaps I should keep my mouth shut. But I use tools, I'm fascinated by them and the things they allow me to make. A group of tools that I really appreciate are “Backed Saws”

A backed saw traditionaly has a folded brass or steel back that adds tension and stability to thin saw plates. Some innovations now mean that the backs of many saws are now slotted and bonded with adhesive and even in some cases, injection moulded! These also fall under the heading of what many now refer to as “Western Saws”. We use these saws on the push stroke, without a back, these Backed Saws would simply buckle when pushed to task because of their thin plate.

Having a thin saw plate that is just robust enough is very desirable because it prevents the worker becoming tired and allows neater work to be done. There is no need to have a bigger saw kerf than needed. This relatively thin blade can't be done on Western saw without a back. I'm not overly concerned about super thin saw plates and virtually no set. Before you know it you're down a rabbit hole of diminishing returns. The balance that suits me is the kind of saws that were made during the 19th and early 20th century.

Back saws are essential at the bench. A tenon saw for small cheeks and shoulders of all kinds, dovetail saws for small work, not just dovetails. Other hand saws without backs can be used for some tasks but you'll never cut a shoulder with one (try cutting neat shoulders for furniture grade work with a handsaw) but you'd likely find them very helpful ripping down the cheeks of a good sized tenon.

For me, this is a very important distinction to make. For ripping down the cheek of a tenon, a panel saw works very well. For architectural work, a hand saw and panel saw is effective. I think of my tenon saw as a shoulder saw or a saw for smaller and neater work

I did an experiment a while back on some through dovetails in some 7/8” stock I was using to make a Shaker style firewood box. I found I was able to cut perfectly acceptable joinery with a hacksaw, dovetail saw, tenon saw, panel saw and a disposable site saw. The only one I struggled with was a thumb hole rip, it was just too savage.

It showed me how forgiving large through dovetails are. I couldn't of done that with tenon shoulders, beading, cutting mouldings etc. Back saws are an essential part of a good tool kit and mine are absolutely essential for my work.